Is anyone using the 'Reconstructing History' pattern for early 17th c. Landsknecht Wams und Hosen?

 

I'm currently putting together my garb, and except for a few road bumps (mostly due to inexperience), the Wams came together nicely. Sadly, the same cannot be said about the Hosen! The pattern does not allow for any room to move about or bend. Also, the codpiece pattern and the instructions that come with it, aren't very informative at all! Attempting to follow the instructions, puts the buldge of the codpiece right over my navel.

 

Do any of you have any experience using this particular pattern, or perhaps just some helpful tips on the subject? If so, I'd love to hear from you.

 

- Soeren

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Yes, I would like that very much. Thank you! I shall of course have to squeeze in a few extra workdays before the event, but I'd rather do that, than end up with a half-arsed garb.

 

I see! Well, that's good to know. I confess, I do not have any references for the 'party coloured' piece. I would have just thought a Landsknecht would have gone to -any- lengths, to catch the attention of others with his bits and bobs?

 

Thank you for the praise. I'm afraid that, as a result of lack of fabric, my Hosen are rather plain compared to my Wams. As with most reenactors and suchlike, I'll probably end up redoing the whole thing at some later date.

 

- Soeren

Hi Soeren,
 
Sorry for the wait, last week didn't work out, but I got pictures this week. My camera ran out of battery so I had to use my brothers phone camera. I hope they help. Please note that some padding is used in this codpiece but it does actually hold his 'equipment'. I didn't use a pattern for the gusset, I just kind of made it up on the spot. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
-Brien

That's very helpful. Thank you!

Though I believe I shall have to make a bigger gusset, if I don't want to tear my pants. But that's a minor adjustment. I get the general gist of it.

There has been damage to these hosen although it seem to be due more to rubbing than to tearing. But the thing that I don't fully understand is that the rubbing seems to be on the inside of the garment. The liner was the first to wear and now the inter-liner is wearing, but the wear to the outer layer is minimal, about what you would expect. So what's rubbing? My brother is generally pretty hard on his clothes, and he has worn these hosen quite a bit, so maybe it's not generally a design flaw. Regardless, I have some patches to sew.

Right! I got the gusset down, and a codpiece to match. I'm happy with the result, although the amount of fabric left, did not allow for any slashing. Too bad..

Do you guys know of any clever ways to tie the midsection above the codpiece?

I see Brien has run a cord through small hoops on the outside of his Hosen. Is this the common way of doing it?

Hi Soeren,
 
The only way I can document with absolute certainty is points, which these hosen were originally fastened with. It hard to tell what the most common fastening system is as much of the time the fastening system is hidden (or not shown) in period artwork. Points seem common, but it's also common to not actually see the fastening system. There are some images that suggest lacing (like on these hosen) such as Dosso Dossi's Aeneas and Achates on the Libyan Coast, which you can see in one of my albums. It's a little hard to tell in the image, but having seen the original, I can tell you that it looks like the guy with the red hosen has a red cord fastening his hosen together. It is also possible that hooks and eyes were used but I don't like these as they don't allow for tightness adjustment as one's weight fluctuates. The lacing system seems to be the easiest as it requires only one cord, is adjustable, and holds the front firmly and evenly closed without any pulling in one area. The next time I use this system I think I will put both set of the rings on the inside of the hosen. I can't say I've actually seen any rings like these used on hosen in period artwork, so they were either hidden or they used something else.
 
-Brien
 
Good stuff. I ended up using points as well, making eyes on either side and then running a cord between them, much like shoelaces. It may be rather too visible, but it sure as hell looks dashing! It also allows for quite a bit of adjustment, which is good. I'm just now making the final eyelids for my Wams and Hosen to go together, so my project is pretty much done.. For now.. It is nice, considering my deadline is tomorrow, well, today.

Thank you for all your input! You've been most helpful.

-Soeren

Hi,

I'm glad I found this thread. Hoses and codpieces are, as someone says, headache stuff. That's part of the challenge but also a result of very cunning techniques, such as eliminating seams (compare with modern pants that have two leg seams, hoses have only one) or making non-stretch material stretch.

Please have a look at a pair of hoses I made several years ago, they too are for a big guy:

http://www.landsknecht.org/photo/albums/doppels-ldner-viklund-s-hoses

 It seems to me that the codpiece could either be located anywhere from right between the legs - in which case it will sort of disappear or seem to be placed too low - up to a few inches above it, but still definitely below the navel. It's a matter of taste I'd say.

The triangular gusset is the way to go, for fit and strength. And don't make it too small. Codpieces aren't necessarily supposed to hold anything. I'm sure some models could but that would also place them rather low. In principle, I use the something between the Alpirsbach (too early) and the Uppsala Sture hoses (Janet Arnold, too late), but they show the same principle.

I just made a new codpiece for my hoses, and I took pictures of the entire process (same pattern as the red hoses). See here:

http://www.landsknecht.org/photo/albums/kapten-s-cod

 

Kapt

 

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