just came to know of this Forum and glad to join - just what I was looking for! :-)
I have just started building equipment for a Landsknecht/Arkebusier, doing where I have some experience at first - shoes. I tried a kind of prototype of a Kuhmaulschuh of the 1st half of the 16th century after finds from the Netherlands (fastening buckle is still missing) according to O. Goubitz reconstruction (if you look closely you can also see that I made a little mistake with the way the rand is sewn - stupid me :-P ):
Well, you shouldn't be able to see the upper of the 2 threads, i.e. the one joining the rand to the upper. As I said, a minor thing :-)
It was just a first try anyhow to see how I'd get along with this type of shoe. The next one (I'll try the Alpirsbach find) should be better.
A few more detail pics from before the outer sole is sewn on:
Complete view from below, you see the inner sole, the upper sandwiched between the frame and the inner sole and the sewing connecting inner sole, upper and frame:
Ddetail of the heel area, the additional sandwiched layer is the heel stiffener:
Different view of the heel area, showing more clearly how the stitching runs and how frame and sole are sewn together incorporating the upper and heel stiffener.
The technique used here is typical for shoemaking from around the end of the 15th/start of the 16th century, starting to replace the turnshoe that dominated shoemaking for probably almost a thousand years.