Greetings!

I see lots of help on here and many questions being answered with extreme detail which is amazing! I play in the SCA and personally I like to be as accurate as possible with my garb. I plan to make some actual Landsknecht garb in the near future and am looking for general assembly tips and fabric suggestions. I have very little experience sewing and pattern making so any tips there would be a huge help. And to get the right look what are some good fabrics that can be used that wont break the bank? Thank you in advance for all the help I am sure to get

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are the pattern available?

Hello Mike,

If you have a look at my pictures I have two albums of socks and a codpiece I recently made. My idea is to photo document what I make, but this what I have so far. Perhaps they can give some inspiration and a general idea of certain techniques.

I recently put a brief hose instruction together, see below. Together with an album I have of a pair of quite ambitious hoses I made on commission, you will hopefully get an idea of how to do it. This is my interpretation of large amount of first and second hand sources as well as ten years of hands-on experience. There are of course alternative interpretations that are equally "correct". What I do know, however, is that this will give you hoses of great quality.

HOSES

For general techniques one can always study Janet Arnold's Patterns of fashion 1560. No exakt landsknecht garb but lots of details. That's where I got our hose pattern from. Each leg is one piece with a very strange shape if folded out. Much is similar to 15th c. hoses, there are even many woodcuts with the straight back instead of curved lines like we use. The hoses are tied to the doublet and socks with straps and points, like 15th c.

From the back it looks like this:

  1. The easiest way of getting the base is to use an old pair of fairly tight jeans, just draw the lines and cut open. The point C is the most crucial part, that plus wedge F is what gives the tight fit AND flexibility - that you can move around in them without problems.
  2. After cutting up the pants, you will have to adjust point C to make it right. The logic behind this 3D shape is difficult to get one's mind around. Try it in two pieces of paper to get a feel for the fitting mechanics. If you think the left leg, the papers should be one P-shaped flat piece (the outer part), and one mirrored-G-shaped piece, slightly folded along the imaginary line C-F.
  3. Legs usually stop above the knee (B). Earlier hoses were integrated with the socks. Shorter variants were common, which means longer socks.
  4. I propose to make a foundation using strong linen or fustian. This makes the hoses much sturdier, especially when slashing come into the picture. Make sure the direction of the threads follow the longer parts of the legs, in this case along the outer sides of the legs. Otherwise they will stretch when you try to put them on and lock to the leg too far down. This way you'll have one point where you can safely pull the hoses onto your legs. Outer layers and lining can be cut with thread direction in other angles so to lock each other.
  5. Start sewing C-A (meaning start at C and sew towards A) and then continue with C-B.
  6. When both legs are done sew E-D.
  7. F is the secret to the hoses. It's a wedge shaped piece giving complete flexibility (like the square piece in the armpit of shirts). At the front of it you fasten the codpiece (see my albums for how to make it). Sew the wedge to the hoses starting from point E. I suggest using a very strong thread for this (like 5/18). This piece takes the greatest strain when using the hoses. The codpiece is fastened to the front by points and thereby tightens the backside.
  8. When you have the foundation in place you apply cloth, leather, linen, silk or whichever combination you decide to use. Cloth was the most common of course. Hoses benefit from a heavy dense cloth (5-700 gr/sqm). The applied material basically follow the same pattern as the foundation. Take thread direction into consideration (see point 4).
  9. Bear in mind that slashed materials change the characteristics completely, so try it out using cheaper material before cutting your expensive cloth.

An older comment on the same topic:

http://www.landsknecht.org/forum/topics/hosen-and-codpiece?commentI...

Good luck!

Thank you very much. This is quite helpful and the timing couldnt be better. The unit just officially reformed for this year and I got promoted which inspires me to look my best on the field. I will also be checking out your pictures to see what I can come up with. Hope to post some pictures of what I have made soon looking super swanky is a nice soft kit

Any progress on your costume?

Hey Kapten,

I finally was able to find time and cash to begin working on costume. I dont have a picture of it completely finished yet but I started off making a Waffenfrock because it will at least hide some of my other garb that isnt right. When I get a finished picture I will definitely post it.

Attachments:

Here's a question: The Reconstructing History pattern has the closed wams that join together in the middle of the chest on the front. Is there historical provenance for wams fastening in the direct middle like this? A lot of the wams I see are longer on the left side and wrap over the the chest to fasten on the right side.

Hello!

I don't know if anyone uses this forum but I give it a shot. So I would like to reconstruct a complete garment. I nearly completed it but I stuck with it. I share a link with you. I would like to have a proper hat fitting into the period. This is a very early form of landsknecht. The engraving is from Albrecht Dürer. It is visible that he has a hat but I can't see it just the feathers on his back. I would loke your help with it. Thank you in advance!

The picture: Landsknecht

Sorry Viktor, but the link doesn't work for me ...

I uploaded it as a picture. I hope it works now.:)

These hats show up in lots of Durer's landsknecht images. They seem to be a large fur-felt hat decorated with a ribbon chin-strap and ostrich plumes. I found a large shaggy felted knit hat that I wet molded to the desired shape. From the visual evidence, I think this particular hat style was worn by soldiers of some rank. They are almost always seen on landsknechts carrying halberds and long swords, or (as in the posted engraving) on ensigns or other officer types. Basic pikemen and other low ranking soldiers tend to wear smaller caps with only one plume or peacock feather. I believe the multiple ostrich plumes were a field sign, allowing the soldier to be seen more effectively be his fellow troops. The halberdier in Durer's "Five landsknechts and and oriental on horseback", 1495 sports one of the hats you are after. Also check out his "Galloping rider" 1496, and the halbardier in his "Ecco Homo" 1497-1498. You can see my interpretation of this hat in my profile pic. Hope this helps. Cheers!

Dear Jamie,

You have helped me a lot. I have been searching for an appropriate hat for a while. I personalize a simple soldier so I think a simpler hat will be more appropriate. Thank you very much for your help!

Viktor,
Glad I could help. To see what I believe is a good representation of the "hierarchy of men's hats", check out the donor and his sons in Durer's "Lamentation for Christ" for the Holzschuher family. I think particular styles of hats indicated the order of one's birth, as well as one's class (burger, patrician, nobility). I have yet to figure out which hat style meant what. I think it is safe to say younger sons wore small berets with small half-brims, sons in the middle wore berets with a brim in front and back(typical landsknecht style), while older sons and fathers wore the big fur felt bonnets like those I referenced yesterday. This is based purely on visual evidence, and the known fact that one's clothing in the period was regulated to communicate one's place in the social hierarchy. I think you could go with single brim beret like the one in Durer's "Young Couple Threatened by Death" 1496-1498, or a beret with a brim front and back as on the lady in "Young Lady on Horseback and Landsknecht" (I believe the lady wears her man's hat). Sorry I did not have time to post these images. Cheers!

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