Wams and Hosen

Work in progress Hosen. They should sit a little better once fastened at the top. Considering whether or not to make the eventual legs detachable or permanent.

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Comment by Søren Strandby on April 27, 2013 at 11:56pm

A photo of the front can be seen here: http://www.landsknecht.org/photo/wams-and-hosen-3 Sadly I ended up not making shorts, but kniehosen. They actually worked better as shorts, but I thought they were a bit too daring for the use I had in mind.

I'm considering reverting these to shorts, and making another pair of either full-length, or knee long hosen, without the two-part construction. :)

Comment by Cynthia Cooper on April 25, 2013 at 6:52pm

Can you post a picture of the front of the above?

Comment by Cynthia Cooper on April 25, 2013 at 6:51pm

sorry I didn't see the answer down below.  My bad :)

Comment by Cynthia Cooper on April 25, 2013 at 6:48pm

Where did you get the pattern to make the shorts?  My boyfriend runs very hot and these would be perfect.

Comment by Søren Strandby on February 20, 2013 at 11:30pm

Thanks again, guys!
Nicolas - I got pretty lucky with the first mock-up I made using waste fabric. It was more or less EXACTLY the size I wanted. I'm currently working on all the eyeleds (in this picture, the front was just done up with safety pins) - hopefully I'll get to snap a few pictures by the start of next month, where I'll be doing some repairs to my old costume, in order to lend it to a friend for a coming event.

Jamie - This is a modified version of reconstructing history's Landsknecht Wams & Hosen pattern. The modifications are based on my experience from making my previous costume, as well as some helpful advice from people on this forum and elsewhere. The original pattern is available for purchase at reconstructinghistory.com. Hope this helps!

Comment by Nicolas L'Anguille on February 18, 2013 at 5:03pm

The issue that I've run into with the reconstructing history hosen pattern is that the crotch is made too narrow.  I have the person I'm fitting bring a pair of worn out, but well fitting trousers or sweat pants.  We put them in them, and using duct tape, tape them to the fit we want.  Then I draw on the seams for the back, and the opening for the front and codpiece.  I then carefully cut them out of the hosen, cut all the necessary seams, and lay the "pattern" out on muslin, trace it, and add seam allowances.  I then apply this to the wool or linen to get the basic shape, and fit the woolen hosen from there. 

I must say, Soren, these look outstanding.

Comment by Jamie Foote on February 16, 2013 at 4:17pm

This is truly awe inspiring. Where did you get the pattern for this?

Comment by Søren Strandby on February 16, 2013 at 1:55pm

Hello again, Lee.
I did indeed insert a gusset as suggested in the thread I started a while back. My last pair of hosen were only one layer of wool and some linen bands for the eyelids. It split from the crotch and a bit down one leg after I squatted down to do some heavy lifting, but not in the seams. It was just that one layer of fabric where it split. No folds, no seams, nothing - bit of a rookie mistake! These new hosen are two layers of wool, linen bands around the edges for eyelids as well as linen lining. Everything is seamed up nice and tidy inside, and they really feel A LOT sturdier. No loose ends! So far it seems I have great freedom of movement exactly because I made them so skin tight with my modifications to the original pattern.

As for the sleeves, they're only 2 layers of wool, and no linen lining. Looking back on it now, some lining might have made the inside look nicer, but the garment is heavy enough as it is, and I wanted to avoid stuffing any more fabric into the already strained cuffs. It's no problem putting the wams ON, but getting your hands back out of the cuffs requires a little effort, because they just don't budge!

Hope this helps.

Best regads

Søren

Comment by Lee Burge on February 16, 2013 at 5:51am

P.S.  Is there a third layer to your sleeves...a lining layer?  Obviously, the strips of the out layer and the solid second layer are sewn together at the wrist, shoulders, and various regular intervals inbetween, but are they also sewn to a lining layer underneath all???  Thanks again!

Comment by Lee Burge on February 16, 2013 at 5:48am

Hello Soren,

 

     That's what I thought, as it seemed a little familiar.  I have the same pattern, but my first wams and hosen were based on my own designs, modified from 15th century doublet and hose patterns. 

 

     There was something that I've been pondering, and that is the crotch of the hosen.  In 15th century hose, ease and freedom of movement in tight hose is achieved by making the curve of the crotch, along the perineum, very shallow and very high into the crotch.  There can't be much "sag" between the legs, othewise when your legs are spread to the sides or you take a long stride, the material and seams of the crotch area suffer undo stress.  This is easlily done with 15th century hose, since they don't rise very high on the hips (in fact, they don't rise any higher than the hips, at all!).  With 16th century hose, though, the top of the hose reaches all the way to the waist, rather than stopping at the level of the hip bone.  This means that the curve of the crotch is, according to Reconstructing History's pattern, very deep, which would seem to limit mobility in the fashion I mentioned above.  I saw that someone on this forum had suggested that you add a gusset just behind the codpiece.  I'm, obviously, curious...how well can you move in your hosen and what is your range of movement?

 

     The hosen I made, which are of the two piece variety (with upper "breaches" and lower "stockings" pointed together) have breaches which are constructed out of leather, which was probably not the best choice of materials, as the leather doesn't "give" or "ease" much (since it's not a woven material).  The next 16th century hosen I make will be made of wool, and I have a source for some wonderful twill woven wool.  The twill weave allows more stretch to cloth cut on the bias.  Hopefully this will make an improvment over my previous leather breaches.

 

     I'd like to know how your breaches turned out, if you have gotten them to point of being finished enough to test them out.  Thansk for your time and trouble, and I look forward to hearing from you.

 

Vale,

Lee Burge

15, Feb. 2013  

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